Toxic Poop
Poor Lloyd. Our son’s been pooping toxic-green sludge since Christmas. Dr Google told us this is perfectly normal, even for children not living near coal mines or power plants. But recently the sludge turned to soup, so off to the pediatrician we went.
Bridging 100 Years
The forty-minute walk to his practice used to be a relaxing and scenic tour through the Preußisches Viertel (Prussian Quarter), home to some of Dresden’s most attractive villas. Lately, however, the tail end of our stroll past the Waldschlößchen Brewery overlooking the Elbe River has become more of a nuisance. Our route to the doctor takes us through the middle of a construction site for a bridge the city may or may not need. (It’s been a discussion topic for over a century – the Germans are, if nothing else, a thorough folk.) The latest lurch of this bureaucratic train has been toward building it, this time with the justification that traffic congestion is out of hand. Having spent too many precious hours of my fleeting youth in traffic jams on this very road, I can attest to the need for a solution.
Whether a bridge – or a tunnel, or a trebuchet – at this or any location would solve the problem is anyone’s guess. And as with all one-hundred-year-old urban development issues, this one has accumulated diverse camps of steadfast opinion, each one championing the vital element of existence, location, function, form or aesthetics. A few years ago, when the word “bridge” in Dresden still meant merely any span across a body of water, the city held a referendum. The people said: “Build the bridge!” And it was so. And the people were pleased. Right away stuffy architects with square-rimmed glasses, fast cars and offices somewhere near Stuttgart or Munich scoured their hard drives for generic bridge designs they always have ready to pawn off on paying customers. They scribbled down fancy explanations about the design’s harmonious interaction with the local environment, etc. etc. They waited. Deals would be made and broken, palms would be greased, construction would begin.
And then UNESCO came and ruined it all.
Title is Everything
In 2004, UNESCO bestowed upon the people of Dresden and Saxony an honor so coveted in these parts that it made them forget all about their bridge plans: they gave them a title. In Germany it is still common – often expected – to use titles when addressing a title holder. If a person has a PhD in any discipline, they are called Herr/Frau Doktor. If they hold a PhD and a professorship, you call them Herr/Frau Professor Doktor. If they hold two PhDs … Herr/Frau Doktor Doktor. (They tell me it’s even worse in Austria. *shudder*) And if UNESCO says:
“Hear ye, hear ye! From this day heretohenceforthward, all those fields and trees along the Elbe River where you walk and picnic shall be given the title: World Heritage Site!”
Fanfare! Balloons!
Not just anyone has such a title (although with the list averaging 29 new properties per year, that could change soon). This is something to crow about, something to wear on your sleeve.
Not so fast! UNESCO said. If you build that bridge across the Elbe, you’ll lose your title.
And now it’s something to protect.
There are already seven bridges in Dresden.
After receiving the UNESCO title, however, there was only one Bridge. And it didn’t even exist. The mood changed quickly among the masses; We don’t want it anymore. Don’t build it! We are Herr/Frau World Heritage Site! But the architects had their deals, and the politicians had their greasy palms. The bridge would be built. You already voted for the bridge! the people were told, And a bridge you’ll get.
Enter the Tree People
I have only good things to say about trees. They’re pretty. They’re important. We need them to breathe, to shelter wildlife and to keep neighbors from looking into our yards. I love going hiking in the woods and lying in the shade. I am appropriately appalled at the destruction of rain forests, though I’m sure my lifestyle contributes to it.
Things were looking bleak for the nouveau bridge opponents. In November of 2007, the first excavators rolled onto the scene and wasted no time in tearing out a landing-strip-size swath of World Heritage on both banks of the Elbe - the shadow of the bridge. Farther up the north bank, men with chainsaws cleared away scores of lofty birch trees to widen the narrow streets, exposing many innocent residents to the prying eyes of those next door. The swift action by the government to begin the project before any further legal proceedings bogged it down incited many citizens to protest. Small, orderly groups of concerned individuals holding signs gathered at the site. But no matter how high they stretched their placards into the air, the government would not capitulate. A few even resorted to megaphones. Still, nothing. Resigned to accepting a moral victory only, the protesters vacated the area and went home to have lunch.
In mid-December, the tree people came.
They are called “Robin Wood” and see themselves as modern-day Dukes of Hazard (who, according to their ballad, saw themselves as a true modern-day Robin Hood). Armed with nothing more than youthful idealism and several long novels - and maybe some of Uncle Jesse’s hooch - they hunkered down in the highest branches of the oldest death-row tree (about 200 years) and prepared to fight the good fight. “We’re not leaving unless you pull us down or let the tree stay!” they cried. Since this single birch is obstructing a 160-million-euro project, one might accuse these eco-amigos of not seeing the forest for the trees. Considering the forest was already mowed down in December and there is only one tree remaining, it’s an understandable mistake. What I can’t understand, however, is this:
Do you see it? No, not Mother Tree occupied by environmental do-gooders. This:
Their birch mobile. Just how many meters does that thing get per rocket fuel tank, anyway? And why is it that the Children of Gaia always like to pack themselves into such ozone annihilators on their way to the next drum circle à la the Partridge Family?
Hey kids, if you really want to save that tree, I’d push your wonder bus past state limits before blast-off.
But you’ll have to come down from on High first.